NEW YORK FASHION WEEK REVIEW- Spring/Summer 2009

BCBG Max Azria showed a wearable palette of soft greys with flashes of raspberry, orange and blues. Drapery abounded, creating beautiful details contrasted against a sport-lux undertone with fluid jersey and silks used on jumpsuits and dresses. The focus of the season? Definitely all about the LEG- get those FitFlops on girls!
Betsey Johnson, NYC’s resident eccentric, returned us to our childhoods with a collection inspired by a trip to the circus in which bold patterns and primary brights were plentiful. The fun collection played with proportion in a nod to Alice in Wonderland with exaggerated hips and shoulders as well as crinoline skirts. Andy Pandy style pinafore jumpsuits and a nursery pattern on a colourful knit cardi reminded of nursery days whilst a Pirate influence was in evidence when dark ruffles were paired with stripes and a skull & crossbones motif featured on leggings & a knit.
Carolina Herrera showcased her signature ladylike eveningwear in a collection of strapless cocktail dresses and elegant gowns. The shoulders provided a focal point in the grown-up collection with cut-outs, strapless and off-the-shoulder styles all featured. Ruffles in all proportions created texture, as did embellishment. Bright colours including yellow, blue & tomato red were contrasted by monochrome items, with a white maxi dress featuring a poppy motif standing out.
Cynthia Rowley’s relaxed collection featured body-con, sport-lux influences in beautiful fabrics with embellishments and futuristic details such as graphic lines, cut outs and layering, all in a muted, neutral palette.
Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti showed a neutral palette of rich, Earthy tones with blue highlights. Ethnic embellishments hinted at a global influence whilst parka-style jackets gave a nod to the sport-lux trend.
Peter Som showed a grown-up collection which perfectly balanced neutral basics with flashes of on-trend blue and hot, punchy brights including raspberry & orange. Relaxed shirt-dresses, playsuits and wide legged trousers were all belted whilst cute, strapless prom dresses added a fun element.
Proenza Schouler’s collection was mainly monochrome, with flashes of mint green, yellow and silver. Figure hugging pieces and exaggerated shoulders showed a futuristic influence whilst zips and black leather hinted at toughness and survival.
Alice McCall’s collection was reminiscent of previous collections by Luella and Pucci. Shades of blue and yellow brightened a mainly monochrome palette, whilst patterns included graphic prints, nautical stripes and organic inspired designs. Cut-out detailing gave a nod to futurism whilst skinny trousers cropped at the ankle had a sport-lux influence and corset tops added sex appeal.
Preen showed a collection which reflected their signature sport-lux, minimalistic style. It really feels as though, in this time of economic uncertainty, designers are sticking with what they do best- and it’s a strategy which is producing some beautiful collections. The collection was largely monochromatic with soft, muted colours such as blue and cafe au lait with a flash of orange. Sheer panels created texture and metallic denim, e.g. on a jumpsuit, added a casual element. Drapery, again, featured very strongly with legs a focal point and ruffles haven’t gone away as yet- they featured both big & small.
Narcisco Rodriguez showed a predominantly monochrome collection, with graphic lines and pattern including houndstooth adding interest. Ladylike styling met punk with bondage bands wrapped around the body, figure hugging dresses & trousers and an emphasis upon zips all in evidence.
Karen Walker showed a fresh collection of preppy pieces, with nods to androdynous styling and geek chic through relaxed suits, waistcoats and boyfriend blazers. A classic, nautical colour palette prevailed although an oversized animal print added a grunge element to some pieces, whilst rich blue dresses were sophisticated.
Monique Lhuillier showed an elegant collection featuring wearable, ladylike day dresses in printed silks and red carpet worthy evening gowns with sheer, gauzy layers and subtle embellishments. A Grecian influence was in evidence in the drapery of column dresses which were shown in opulent jewel tones.
Matthew Williamson’s collection largely comprised pieces in his signature brights. There was plenty of embellishment, from subtle detailing on the pockets of a strapless coral dress to extravagantly jewelled brocade. Williamson remained true to his brand values by showing boho-glam pieces such as maxi dresses belted at the waist and sheer, printed kaftans destined for summers spent lazing in Ibiza. For die-hard hippies, there were psychedelic patterned jumpsuits whilst darker colours provided grown-up appeal.
Badgley Mischka showcased their signature feminine style for SS09. The conservative styles included prom dresses, evening gowns and garden party shifts. A largely monochromatic colour scheme showed off lace cut outs although a grey bolero jacket stood out as a very wearable item. For evening, tiered ruffles were cleverly left unfinished to resemble feathers on skirts of black & white strapless dresses, whilst on other pieces, colours including lilac, pink and yellow with ribbon detailing stood out. A floral pattern which featured on dresses & swimwear caught my attention as did a fuchsia pink voluminous jacket.
Oscar de la Renta is renowned for his elegant, ladylike styling and this collection did not disappoint. A largely neutral palette perfectly showcased his attention to detail- with quality fine knits, immaculately tailored trousers and grown-up A-line skirts in sumptuous fabrics cinched at the waist. An oversized floral print featured on fun prom dresses and there were plenty of beautiful column dresses for evening events.
Michael Kors showed a grown-up collection of ladylike pieces, inspired by the elegance of the 1950s. Black & white provided a base palette to which flashes of brights and bold pattern, including stripes, check and polka dots were added. There were element of sporty-glam with a nod to tennis culture but on the whole, shapes reminded of the ‘50s with full skirts and modest necklines on Summer dresses.
Donna Karan’s collection featured fluid lines and drapery for effortless elegance. Layering, trouser suits and a neutral palette of beige, khaki, grey and brown hinted at a safari influence.
Marchesa looked to the East for inspiration and presented an opulent collection with Chinoiserie details such mandarin collars, obi belts and origami folds. A frogging embellishment featured on a one-shouldered gown whilst fabric blossom exaggerated the hips on a pale pink strapless dress. Black & gold were prevalent colours with black lace peeping out under feminine, sheer layers. There was plenty to choose from for Red Carpet occasions but a standout piece was a grey strapless dress with an oversized bow detail, ideal for young Hollywood starlets.
Derek Lam showed a relaxed collection of sport-lux styles. A neutral palette of black, white & flesh tones meant that the focus was upon the beautiful fabrics, from fine knits to satins. Details such as graphic lines, popper buttons and drawstring pulls reiterated the sporty message whilst metallics added a luxurious element for evening. Fluid lines featured on trouser suits, jumpsuits and dresses with orange & yellow brights injecting colour.
Jonathan Saunders is known for his colourful, graphic prints and this collection did not fail to deliver. His geometric patterns had a tribal feel in some pieces and the colours including bright orange, blue, lime green and pale pink as well as commercial monochrome pieces. The collection felt grown-up compared to previous years with beautiful tailoring and soft metallics. Again, the legs & waist were focal points with 1980s inspired crinoline skirts featuring in abundance with clever drapery. Stand-out pieces included sheer dip-dyed silk dresses in opulent colours and a midnight blue gown, elegantly cinched in gold at the waist.
Halston wowed with ‘70s inspired styles in a rainbow of colour. Sorbet shades including lemon and lilac featured on softly draped Grecian style dresses in addition to punchy brights such as coral orange, peach and turquoise blue. Muted tones, from grey to smoky plum, added elegance to the fluidity of jumpsuits and a black, asymmetric belted maxi dress was a standout piece.
Herve Leger by Max Azria featured numerous versions of their signature “body-con” dresses in a frosted palette of pastels and metallics with bursts of colour and cut-out detailing. Some styles had a futuristic feel to them, with geometric patterns- in particular, a coral dress with black pattern caught my attention. There were plenty of LBD’s to choose from and a blush pink gown with gold sequin detailing which is sure to show up on the red carpet when awards season begins.
Marc Jacobs’s extensive collection was an eclectic mix with clashing patterns from tartan to tweed and stripes narrow and wide. The show began with a parade of Edwardian inspired styles- ladylike tailoring featured and outfits were topped with straw hats in a range of colours. Obi belts and tunics gave a nod to the Orient, whilst African influences were evident through head scarves, tribal style necklaces and rich, Earthy tones.
Marc by Marc Jacobs is the younger, diffusion line by the designer and the collection reflected this. Casual layering and clashing patterns provided a relaxed feel with fun, smock dresses in polka dots and a ditsy, floral print being shown. Belts at the waist gave definition whilst details such as utilitarian pockets and turn-ups on trousers to create a cropped effect meant that there were very practical pieces. The collection had a subtle nomadic mood, with eclectic pieces which looked as though they had been gathered on global travels- grey suiting and tweeds from England, multi-coloured knits from Latin America and Russian babushka styles.
Diane Von Furstenberg began with a monochrome palette before introducing a kaleidoscope of colour. Influences ranged from gypsy style cuts and tier details to 1970’s Riviera glam as well as some ethnic-inspired embellishments. Pattern featured on numerous items, including tunic dresses. Overall, I found the collection lacked anything new although standout items were a pair of gold sequinned city shorts teamed with a grey skinny tee and a pale gold silk jumpsuit which was elegantly draped and cinched at the waist with a contrasting brown leather belt.
3.1 Phillip Lim showed an elegant, wearable collection with commercial appeal in these times of economic uncertainty. A neutral palette with monochrome and beige featured strongly, with injections of colour such as muted mustard, soft blue-grey and peach adding interest. Androgynous, tailored shirts were teamed with matador waistcoats and fringing also hinted at Spanish influence. Ruffles created volume on ‘80s inspired body-con pieces and a black t-shirt dress with a key piece being a grey v-neck dress with ruffles which was finished with a belt tied into a feminine bow. Texture was added to plain pieces through the use of crochet, lurex and sequin embellishments. The highlight of the show was definitely the accessories- statement necklaces appeared on most outfits and ruffle shoes in a rainbow of colours will undoubtedly generate long waiting lists.
Calvin Klein’s renowned minimalist style and neutral palette perfectly showcased a collection of clever, futuristic cuts and origami folds. The collection began with a series of voluminous dresses in white whilst silver satin and fine knits were introduced, adding texture. Pieces in the palest gold and a pleated, camel dress were equally wearable with a neutral asymmetric shift standing out whilst bright blue dresses provided an injection of colour.
Ralph Lauren showed an elegant, relaxed collection comprised of neutral pieces in khaki, olive, beige & white with highlights of gold. Cropped trousers were either gathered with drawstring or turned up to accentuate the ankles. Satin, androgynous tailoring and turbans hinted at inspiration drawn from historical interpretations of the exotic.
Zac Posen’s collection featured an ice-cream palette of soft, blush colours for feminine appeal whilst striking black pieces added drama for evening. Texture was created via “doily” cut-outs, richly embellished dresses, sheer animal-print layers and voluminous, gathered fabric.
Tommy Hilfiger showed a collection which remained true to his signature sporty, preppy style. Cool neutrals in black, white, beige and navy featured on a collection of classic, wearable styles whilst shocks of bright orange surprised.
Vera Wang’s collection was grown-up with sheer, gauzy layers contrasted against opulent, richly patterned fabrics. Tribal beading and oversized sequins in panels created attention on a muted palette of caramel, orange, olive, black and metallics.
Tory Burch showed a fresh collection of wearable pieces with ladylike, printed dresses for day, casual layers for relaxed holidays and elegant gowns for evening, most notably a coral column dress. The waist was a focal point, with belts cinched to draw attention.
Rodarte’s collection showed warrior women in a post-apocalyptic world. A neutral palette of beige, black and white predominantly featured with flashes of blue, gold, orange and lilac. Contrasting textures with rips, chains, mesh, black leather and bondage straps added a tough edge, highlighted by fitted leggings. The highlight of the show was the finale of maxi dresses with dip-dyed sheer layers creating volume.
Thakoon showed a strong collection with feminine dresses and relaxed trousers whilst remaining true to the edgy brand values. Cream dresses featured black bondage straps, glamorous sequin dresses had sheer panels and chiffon dresses had delicate patterns, whilst a quirky, rose pattern featured strongly, on pieces from dresses to granddad cardigans. Technical skill was showed off on floaty gowns with tight pleats.